Semi-permanent gel polish in retail: a revolution within the nail trade


Right now, one in two shoppers now makes use of semi-permanent gel for his or her manicure, in comparison with one in 4 simply 5 years in the past.

The know-how behind semi-permanent gel

Semi-Everlasting gel has gained recognition because of its sturdiness and prolonged put on, which might final for a number of weeks.

That is defined by a cross-linking know-how well-known in sure trades that requires particular elements similar to HEMA and/or Di-HEMA, and whose obligatory polymerization is activated utilizing UV or LED lamps. The polymerization of those oligomers or monomers permits the creation of a powerful, and glossy movie, in addition to a powerful chemical bond with the pure nail, making certain sturdy adhesion and due to this fact elevated resistance to chipping.

The implementation of such molecules (HEMA and Di-HEMA) and obligatory stabilizers, most of that are sensitizing compounds upon direct pores and skin contact, explains why such formulation are reserved for skilled use.

When market success comes with abuse

The flip facet of its success is that the semi-permanent gel class faces a number of main challenges:

The retail sale of merchandise/formulation supposed “for skilled use” has virtually change into the norm. The usage of these few phrases permits simple evasion of present rules in Europe. Rules which solely permit retail gross sales to shoppers for semi-permanent gel polish formulation, offered they don’t comprise HEMA or Di-HEMA, and with out the intentional addition of stabilizers (MeHQ or HQ). Word that these rules will prolong to different markets such because the USA, particularly California.

Moreover, the marketplace for semi-permanent gels is flooded with Asian origin merchandise whose aggressive costs strongly entice client consideration. Issues come up about these merchandise and their composition: unauthorized uncooked supplies, stabilizer ranges exceeding regulatory limits, and so on.

On the similar time, different market gamers have adopted a deceptive strategy by labeling their merchandise ambiguously, utilizing the time period “semi-permanent polish” for formulation that don’t correspond in any respect to this sort of declare. Cross-linking is a compulsory step for this sort of product; it’s not only a advertising idea. This inevitably misleads shoppers on the lookout for a sturdy various to conventional nail polish. This advertising technique can result in important disappointment amongst customers who don’t discover in these merchandise the efficiency of a real semi-permanent gel, impacting the potential of this class.

Regulatory enforcement as a assure

Confronted with these challenges, many trade consultants name for compliance with rules to make sure the standard and security of merchandise in the marketplace. In keeping with our checks, we are able to count on strengthened legislation enforcement with attainable market withdrawals of merchandise not compliant with European rules.

The product growth groups of IL Cosmetics Group have responded to those challenges with innovation. The Group, No. 1 in Europe within the “long-lasting” nail polish class, has been engaged on diversifying its portfolio for a number of years to supply as we speak a HEMA-FREE, DI-HEMA FREE semi-permanent gel polish in excellent compliance with European rules. Complete transparency on compositions and toxicological certifications will lastly permit all retail manufacturers to benefit from the increase on this product class with out being “restricted” to skilled use (and with out deceiving the patron).

The results of years of inside growth and collaborations with exterior analysis organizations, these new formulation have allowed to realize considerably superior efficiency to conventional nail polishes, with a 3-step manicure for a full chip-free week and as much as 15 days of intact shine!

The ‘gel’ make-up end stays a key issue for shoppers, and we’re already engaged on a one-step resolution to counterpoint the potential of this class. This innovation might be introduced subsequent month at our sales space at Cosmoprof/Cosmopack Bologna,” says Aurélie Ignaccolo, Head of Advertising at IL Cosmetics group.